We are not conventional tourists. We
actually, I suppose like most tourists, hate tourists. We try to avoid them
wherever possible. We avoid the tourists and all the people geared at providing
for the tourists, we rarely buy fridge magnets or postcards, and never souvenirs,
our photos are our memories. Having said this however, we recently visited one
of the most frequented cities in the world, if not the most popular destination
in Europe for tourists. Rome.
So why did we choose Rome? For a little
back ground, I seem to have developed a bit of a reputation (from Adam) as
being the worst gift giver. For our first Christmas together, we were already
living together, so it wasn't supposed to be regarded as a token gift, I got
him a shirt. He is not a selfish person, not greedy or in anyway unkind, but he
won't let me live it down. It was a French Connection T-shirt by the way,
nothing fancy. Anyway, for his birthday I got him a watch, which was supposed
to be a surprise, we walked past a jeweler and he'd noticed it, so I went in
the following week to get it for his birthday, the following month. The problem
was, we only had one key to our apartment, and when he let me in I had a stupid
big grin on my face. "What's that, what's in the bag?" "Nothing,
it's a secret." How dumb am I? So he ended up with nothing on his birthday
but a watch a month early. That Christmas he got nothing, as we were living in
Queen Charlotte Sound in New Zealand, and the closest shops were 3 hours away
(by boat).
So why Rome, well, I chose Rome as we had
never been there, neither of us. The idea started in October last year, Adam
had been talking about going to a Man United Football (Soccer) match for a
while and I thought, maybe I can buy the tickets and tell him we are going to
Manchester for the weekend, and make him get in the taxi to the stadium. Then I
remembered that Adam has been talking about visiting Barcelona for months. We
almost made it there last year when we were in Andorra, but the engine light
came on in our car and we high tailed it to England, and missed out. So, I
thought, how can I combine going to a Man United game and Barcelona, and then
the penny dropped. We go to a FC Barcelona match. It took about a 2 months to
decide the ins and outs. Immediately, as soon as I had the idea, I booked the
time off work (we both work in the same hotel, so as much notice as possible is
required).
Originally I thought about taking Adam to
Lisbon, I loved Portugal, I have been there a few times to the north, south and
in the country side too, and I thought Adam would enjoy Lisbon as much as I
did. And then I thought about Madrid, once again I LOVED Madrid, and I knew I
could show him around, then I thought, we might be leaving Europe soon, and
it'd be nice to go somewhere neither of us had been. Rome. We'd both been to
Northern Italy a few times, Venice and Lake Como in particular are our
favourites.
I managed to keep the gift (mostly) a
surprise until Christmas day. I'd accidentally logged into his booking.com
account when looking at different places to stay in Madrid, Lisbon and Rome, so
he knew we were going somewhere but all the different destinations were
confusing him. Leading up to Christmas I made a little scrapbook for him, with
pictures of all the different places we were going and what we would do their.
Eat pizza, drink Sangria, visit the Vatican.
We spent the weekend before we flew out
with Adam's brother in Wales, so by the time it came fly out we were pooped. We
dropped his brother off at Manchester airport in the evening on Tuesday night
and checked into our budget hotel in anticipation of our early morning flight
the next morning. We sat down to dinner at about 7pm, and he called Adam saying
they'd been taken off the flight, and they wouldn't fly out til the morning. We
hopped they could come to our hotel and we could all have another night
together, but the airline had organised somewhere elsewhere.
The following morning we got up at 3:30am
and drove to Adam's brothers hotel to pick them up, their flight was due to
leave 5 minutes after ours, and it was nice to see them again. (It could be
months til we are all together again). Despite having made the plans almost 6
months in advance, and having 3 months with Adam knowing about the trip also,
we were surprisingly unprepared on our arrival to Rome airport. We didn't know
which bus to take into the city, nor did we know where we were going in the
city center, or how to get there.
We arrived at the hotel at 1:30pm, after a
few errors. To start with we LOOKED LIKE TOURISTS. Big rucksack for one, and
completely lost looks on our faces doing laps of the termini, do we get a
regional train? a local train? a bus? A lady, who actually looked like train
station staff, approached us, asking if we needed help, and she couldn't have
been more right, about a second after we smiled, relaxed and said YES! a police
man came over and started yelling at her to leave us alone, or something else
in Italian. Yes, she looked like train station staff, but by that stage she
also looked like a cartoon pizza we were so hungry.
Still with no idea where we were going, we
decided to go outside, reassess. We found a bus INFO sign and headed straight
over. There was a lovely man standing right nearby who approached us, I think
he was selling tickets for a tour bus company. We showed him where we were
going, and he said "oh, no" and completely defeated, wanting to give
up, he said "it's not a very nice area." I had a flashback to
Casablanca where James and I got a taxi at the train station and the driver
said "ohh no no you don't want to stay there, I'll take you somewhere much
nicer." (Big commision for him, duped for us). Anyway, he gave us
directions, "Take bus 50 - 6 stops" I heard, take bus number 56. But
we found bus number 50, and counted 6 stops.
As soon as we got off we immediately realised
we either went way to far, not not far enough! It was soon apparent that we
went to far. So we asked a lady at the bus stop if she could help us, we
misunderstood her, as she told us where to go in Italian, and the the grumpy
removalist men just waving their arms, and finally findng someone who spoke a
little English telling us to walk "immer wieder gerade aus." It's a
joke Adam and I have, we always seem to get lost somewhere and the answer is
always just keep going straight ahead.
When we were in France, in June last year,
the first time our car broke down, we found a small garage just outside
Montpillier, and the mechanic told us about a Ford mechanic in a small town
about a 15 minute drive away, and we got lost, the directions were fine, but
our interpretation of the directions was hopeless, finally we found a lady in
the street, and asked her if she knew where we had to go. She didn't speak
English unfortunately so I tried my broken German and she said "immer
wieder gerade aus."
We got to the hotel in Rome, just over
half an hour before the room would be ready. We were hot, sweaty, tired and oh
so unbelievably hungry. On our enormous walk to the hotel, we passed a cute
little pizza restaurant. So we left our bags with the receptionist and followed
our noses to the pizza. We were a long way away from the tourists. And as our
first meal in Rome, and considering how hunger we were we basically ordered one
of everything. At 2pm we went to the counter and paid, 6 euros. For both of us,
including a bottle of water. Essentially a whole pizza each and a drink to
share, for 6 euros. Not to mention the best tasting pizza in the world, if not
the universe.
That afternoon, after a much needed 2 hour
nap, we bought another bus ticket, with complete directions this time and
headed for the “real Rome.” The bus we took, the number 81 this time turned out
to be tourist bus at local prices. The bus passes the coliseum, Piazza Venezia,
and terminates at the Vatican. We got off the bus at Piazza Venezia and just
started walking. After about 5 minutes we saw a sign for the Pantheon, and kept
walking in that direction. Before we made it to the Pantheon it started raining
and within 30 seconds street vendors were everywhere selling umbrellas. We
lasted about half an hour, “no no, we are ok, thank you” and then the rain
came, and we gave in. We bought a small black one, we only had 5 euros on us,
and we cuddled under it. The man wanted 10 euros! For an umbrella, “tell him
he’s dreaming” (from The Castle). We had no choice though, we only had 5 euros.
He gave in and we tried to walk
side-by-side-on-an-angle-under-the-tiny-octagon-of-umbrella-squashed.
Just after 5 we found a bus stop that said
the 81 stopped their, and we thought it was about time we headed home. We
waited at the bus stop for about 45minutes, watching the same buses come and go
3 or 4 times. WHERE ARE WE? So we
started walking (somewhere). The rain eased up, a little, and we kept exploring
the side streets, back streets and alleyways.
NOTE:
for all you tourists haters like us, visit Rome in the rain, they all
disappear, hide away, they just leave! Later that night we saw the Vatican lit
up beautifully, almost completely empty.
We spent Thursday in much the same
fashion, exploring, wondering, wandering and getting lost. We found a
patisserie, and learnt how to order coffee and croissants in Rome. The most amazing coffee as well. 4 euros for 2
cappuccinos and 2 orange glazed croissants. We were somewhere in between the
Pantheon and Piazza Navona. Before stumbling on this little gem, we saw the
same coffees and croissants by the Pantheon for over 10 euros, each. So it’s
not the product, it’s where you go to get it.
More pizza, more Peroni, pizza again, some
pasta, and another slice of pizza, and another pint of Peroni and 24 hours go
by and suddenly we’re having pizza for every meal, even snacking on pizza in
between meals. To the point where on Friday night, our last night in Rome, I
put a ban pizza. (Worst mistake of my life). Adam ordered tripe, not knowing
what it was, and boy was that a dish I’ll be happy to never see again. It smelt
horrible, he tired it, I couldn’t. He shared my meal instead.
Barcelona was by far our favourite. This
time, I spent the flight over looking for our hotel on the map, we had bus
directions in our booking confirmation. So essentially we were set. Apart from
getting a little lost in Plaza Catalunya, and missing the stop by one street,
we checked in very comfortably. The stayed at WOW Hostel, in a private room. Everything
about the place was wow, the street, the building, the view, everything.
We had burgers for lunch at a local café,
then got sucked into a very pretentious restaurant for dinner, completely
snubbed by the wait staff, everyone except Martin, from Bulgaria, he was
lovely, and should have been working elsewhere.
And then the Piece de resistance, the FC Barcelona match. The reason for the trip, for the holiday, for Rome and Barcelona.
Sunday the 8th of March. FC Barcelona v Rayo Vallecano. I tried to
get us tickets to FC Barcelona v Real Madrid – but at 30 times the price, I settled
for a team neither of us had heard of. We both thought it was Valencia, and had
to check the tickets a few times to know for sure.
We walked to the stadium, and within about 10minutes we were completely
swallowed by fellow fans, there were people everywhere. We decided to stop,
about half way and have a coffee and croissant, this time filled with chocolate
mousse. I have never had so many croissants in such a short period of time, and
man was it awesome. We found our way through the crowd to gate 2, entrance 80
something and tier a million. Yes, I got us tickets right at the very top of
the stadium, I figure we’ll see more that way. Our seats were on the corner
near the goal but facing the whole grounds, so we weren’t shaking our heads
back and forth to watch the ball we could see everything very clearly. And we
had perfect sunshine raining down on us.
It’s the only way I feel comfortable with 87,000 people, seated! The atmosphere
was spectacular and Adam was like a kid at Christmas. Barcelona won 6-1 so we
saw a lot of goals. Although we missed the first one, at 6 minutes in we weren’t
expecting anyone to score, and a lady had arrived late, she distracted us, and
the rest of the people in the row, trying to find her seat, and we were concentrating
on her instead of the field. She was not very popular after that. We had hot
dogs of course.
We spent the afternoon by the beach, watching the people running, and
cycling. The “beach” vendors selling sarongs and pre made mojitos. We walked
along the promenade trying to find a spot outside to get a pitcher of Sangria,
but as it was a glorious sunny day, and Sunday, everywhere was packed.
I cooked dinner that night, and we collapsed into bed at about 8pm, thoroughly
spent. We decided to spend our last full day at Mt Tibidabo which overlooks
Barcelona. Sitting in armchairs, beer/wine in hand, overlooking the city and
out to sea was just bliss. We sat in the sunshine for hours, it was really
refreshing not having anywhere to be, or anything to do.
We checked out of the hotel on Tuesday morning, and headed into town
again. We stored our bag in a locker near Plaza Catalunya, and headed out by
foot once more. We think, without knowing for sure as we got lost so many time,
but we think we must have walked about 70km in our week away. On our last day,
we finally enjoyed Sangria by the beach, and were serenaded by beach musician.
When I went to pay I saw the “jug” they used to pour the sangria from, I wish I
hadn’t. Before heading to the airport, we also tried Paella for the first time,
I don’t know if we got it from the wrong place, but I had better in New
Zealand.
I used to work at the night market in our local town, and the lady in
the stall opposite ours sold paella and it was just magic. Unfortunately the
one we had tasted a little under-loved.
We arrived at the airport at 5pm, not being able to check in until
after 6pm. We sat on one of the benches and just waited for our last hours of
sunshine to pass. Just after 6 Adam asked where his wallet was. We looked, and
looked, through all our bags, the rucksack everywhere. Then we realised it was
still in the drawer at the hotel, and then it dawned on us. We didn’t just
leave his wallet, we left my Australian passport, both our diaries- mine I’d
had for 2 years, carrying it from country to country. We also left Adams
running watch, and all our books.
By the time we had realised, it was too late to go back into Barcelona,
retrieve the items and make it back to the airport for the 7:30 check in. So we
had to hope and pray that the hotel would post it to us. It has been a week
now. On Thursday they said they would send it to us, but we now haven’t heard
from them since Friday. So fingers toes and everything crossed that they will.