Friday, April 20, 2012

3 posts in one, written a few months ago..


CAPE COAST

Have you heard of the Cape Coast? Before all this, before I decided to come to Ghana I think I had heard the name, but I guess it was like most African geography, I had heard of the Horn of Africa, and the Ivory Coast, but I didn’t know where they were on the map. I didn't even know where the big G (Ghana) was on the map.
The Cape Coast is west of Accra, I’m not sure how far in kilometres, but about 3 hours by tro tro directly. From the hospital in Suhum, it was a bit of a challenge to get there. As I said it was 4 more tro tro rides. But we made it. It was actually a wonderful opportunity to see the country side. We weaved through mountains and along dirt roads for the most of it. The bush is lush, green and thick. The haze hung most of the way, and was still present in the Cape Coast city.

It was hectic. I tend to shy away from Christmas shopping, Chadstone leading up to Christmas makes me feel sick, so many people everywhere yuk! This was different of course, but it’s the best way I can describe the sheer number of people all moving in different directions. Mayhem.

A man sitting next to me on the tro tro helped us, when we finally arrived. He walked with us a bit of the way to the hotel, so we wouldn’t get lost. The road is probably 3 lanes wide, with about a lane and a half used for cars to drive. The rest is filled with people selling goods, food, clothes, shoes, anything, people walking, and an open drain on both sides. In that lane and a half, theres about 5 lanes of traffic trying to squueze through (well at least thats what it felt like).

I should mention quickly, it rained on Sunday, and since then the smell hasn’t been quite so strong. But now, it’s a strange smell, and as long it doesn’t smell like seweage I don’t mind it.

So we got into the hotel, 4 single beds for 6 people; fun. Delfina and I walked up to the castle to meet the other volunteers who had travelled straight from Accra. I am not sure if the castle was built specially for this purpose, but it was used for over a hundred years to hold slaves before they were sold and sent overseas. Small rooms, hot rooms, with barely any ventilation to house hundreds of men and women, for days, weeks, months, years. The current state of the castle, as a tourist attraction and education facility does not do the history justice. I found it quite difficult to imagine what it would have been like. I found it quite sickening. How could we just walk around and hear about hundreds of people at a time, thousands over the centuries, locked up, tortured, in slaved, how could we take photos of where they called home, their cells. I felt, I still feel incredibly ignorant.

We were taken into a small room, maybe 2-3 m squared, this room had 3 doors in a row, one after the other, to ensure once in, there was no getting out. There were no windows, and after spending about a minute in there I thought I was going to pass out. This room was used for the freedom fighters. This room was used for the slaves who fought back, they were put in this room to die. They were not fed, there was no ventilation or light. They were put in this room to die, to starve to death.
How could anyone justify treating people like that? How can we still do it? We don't know how lucky we have it in Australia, I thought I appreciated everything, I would always say I did. But now, this is a different kind of appreciation. I wish I knew an Aboriginal language. I wish I knew what one was called. Or the Aboriginal name of the area I grew up in. That should be taught in schools. We say we are such an amazing country, how come we barely learn anything about Australia pre 1788. There is such a huge focus in school about the First Fleet, about the Westminster system. What about the dream time, or traditional foods? Mum, write the ring bark tree book- ok, promise!!
The view from the top of the castle was quite breath taking, the cove stretches for a fair distance, but it is still possible to see most of the way in both directions from the castle. I guess that’s why they put the castle in that spot.

All I want to do is DANCE

I think that’s what I will call my book. The thing is though, if I really wanted to, I can dance anywhere, at any time, with anyone.
The book is going to be about the forgotten people. A series of bigographies about everyday people. How they got to where they are, maybe they are an artist, musician, teacher, doctor, maybe they are 17, or 35, maybe they are homeless, or have been, maybe they are addicted to drugs or sing in the shower, maybe they just love to travel and never got the chance.

The past month (written end of Feb 2012)

I hated it. So hate is a very strong word. How did I feel? I wanted to leave. I wanted to get back on the plane and get the hell out of here. I’m no saint, why should I stay if I don’t want to. BUT what would I be doing now if I had left? If I have any sense, I would have regrated it. I remember thinking, don’t worry, just give it 2 weeks, how hard can that be. It’s now a month, 4 weeks since I arrived. Had all plans gone ahead, as they were supposed to, had the plans with James worked, I would be arriving in one week. That’s scary. Gosh I’m so glad I arrived when I did. Time has absolutely flown. Wow I just got de ja vu.

Time has absolutely flown. "How is it Friday again?" Not that I'm complaining!!
Please note, I don't hate it anymore. NOT AT ALL! I just bought a ticket back, I'll be back in November. How cool is that!

Sitting on the bus. 8:30am 14th of December 2011.

I've recently spent some time looking through all the documents on my computer, I found this piece which I wrote in December. I figured I'd post it anyway. :)

15 minutes down, 4 hours and 45 minutes to go. He’s probably the first mumma’s boy I have seen, off screen I mean. It’s pretty lucky that the lady taking the tickets kicked me out of the front seat, it was the only free 2 seats together left on the whole bus. I was late of course. I made it to the bus, obviously, but the plan was to get up well before I did, and get the train to the interstate bus stop. “Save a few quid” as they say.

Well when making that plan I hadn’t counted on being put in the worst hostel room yet on my trip. Everyone has different definitions of bad when it comes to hostel living. I can put up with most situations- mess; for example, actually come to think of it maybe I can’t. the shower was hopeless, but provided more privacy than most. The shower room had quite a good set up really. It wasn’t divided into male and female, damen and herren. But each shower had its own little room, to change and store clothes. Some of the places I have stayed in don’t provide such luxuries. My dignity when out the window a while ago. Anyway, the room smelt like boy, stale boy and feet, hot feet. Stale boy and hot feet, makes feel like revisiting the sandwich I had for dinner last night. The heater on at such a high temperature was just making it more smelly. So we have a hot smelly room, as a general rule I only book into mixed dorms. They are always cheaper, and maybe surprisingly not as messy as girls only dorms. The lady who checked me in showed me to the room, sitting in there was a medium to large guy on his computer eating chips. The table provided wasn’t really big enough for more than one person – with his computer, phone, chips all spread around.

I met the other ‘room’ mates in the common room that evening. I first went in to have some dinner; the sandwich I brought from Bröllin that day, and my apple. The radio was on pretty loud, but that’s ok, I like German radio. I understand most words on the radio, enough to get a general picture of the topic, but I usually have no idea what they are talking about.  Anyway, a girl came in to have dinner, she had a book with her. I was trying to get on the internet, but failing at that time, so just writing a bit about my day.

I smiled and said she could turn the radio off or down if she wanted, I wasn’t paying attention anyway. We started chatting. It always starts with “oh you’re Australian” “and you are American?” Nine times out of ten the conversation that directly follows relates to the number Australians travelling. “Is there anyone in their 20s left in Australia? Everyone is in Europe.” Or “I think I have met Australia’s whole population in Europe.” It’s good though, being Australian, on the whole Australians are generally liked, and if you hear an Australian accent there is a pretty decent chance you will get along. All this is another story. The guys I met were Polish I think. I have no issue with Polish people, just letting you know where they were from.

After about 2 hours of trying to get online and chatting to this American girl, about everything from kids in Marrakesh stealing her food, to the morality of an 8year old shooting a deer, and working in Africa and Cambodia, I decided I had to get online to find out about the tomorrow (today) and get ready for bed. The internet worked in the dorm room, which was pretty pointless as I couldn’t breathe in there. After 10 minutes I went to the shower, as explained above, there was no water pressure, but the drain wasn’t clogged so it didn’t flood up my leg- biggest plus of all. I came back into the room, I have to admit being the only girl in a dorm room, at 10PM in your pyjamas is a little awkward.

So I made it quick- packed everything away, got clothes ready for today and got into bed. For whatever reason, some people are really courteous and some aren’t. For example – level of voice, lights on/ off, talking on the phone on loud speaker, watching movies with no headphones, etc. At one am, when the lights finally went out I thought that would be the end of it, after lying in bed for an hour and a half with my iPod on pretty loud to drown out their sounds, I thought now I can get to sleep. That’s about the time the medium to big guy started snoring.

Most people snore a little bit, in a 10 bed dorm, there is always bound to be someone snoring, but this guy takes the cake. Which I guess is a pun, he couldn’t breathe properly, it was like breathing when you have a cold, a really bad cold, no, that’s not good enough, it was like a boat engine. It was so loud he woke himself up. All in all, it’s a miracle I made it to the bus. I think the train from Pasewalk [which is the closest railyway to Schloss Bröllin] to Bayreuth where Christiane is was going to cost me about 80-90 euros. I thought I’d be clever and get the bus for 35 euros. But this bus leaves once a day at 8:15am.

Right, so I couldn’t get the train from Pasewalk at that time, I don’t even know if there is a train that would get me there in time. So I would have to leave the day before, stay a night at a hostel and then get the bus. So the 35 euros became almost 80 by the time I paid for the hostel, train to Berlin, and 2 taxis as I am carrying so much stuff, bringing a new meaning to cleidungs-pferd [clothes horse]. I took out 100 euros on Saturday, hoping I wouldn’t need any more than that until Spain, I was hoping that would get me to Spain. I have less than 2 euros left. I am looking for a four letter word, beginning with F that rhymes with truck. The good news is I made the bus, so I don’t have to worry about another nights accommodation in Berlin, and buying a new ticket. 9:24am. Why is this taking so long. Leipzig- 70km, Munich- 463km. And Bayreuth? 4 hours away. 

Let’s get back to the real reason I pulled my computer out on the bus. The mumma’s boy. I have no real proof, I don’t even know if she is his mum, she could be his wife. So, the man, I shouldn’t say he is a mumma’s boy, what do I know? As the bus pulled out of the terminal, the hostess gave us a little speech about what to expect; the toilet, purchasing food etc. I should mention it is a normal sized bus, with 3 staff. Really, is 3 staff really necessary. The driver, the hostess making the coffee and snacks, and some other guy, security maybe, what do they think we are going to do, run amuck? On year 8 camp to Portland in Victoria a few of the guys used their swiss army knives to tear up the seat belts on the back of the bus. Clever huh, they got sent back to Melbourne. We were 13, 14 then, I don’t see what a bunch of too cheap to buy a train ticket people are going to do, but I’ll keep you posted.

The hostess, I keep typing hotel.

The hostess was telling us about all those important things to remember, and I got the gist of what she was saying; they have newspapers and if you press the little red button above the seat, where the air con comes out, she will come over and take your order. I can’t remember what she said that the time when the man, maybe 45, maybe younger turned to the passenger behind him and snickered. That’s when I saw the screwed up pieces of paper in his ears. Not even ear plugs. Surely that can’t be good for you, and what use would it do, maybe stop air getting in, but noise will still get through.

Maybe you could try it and let me know?

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

The weekend that was (23-25 March)


My last post was written on Friday (23/03) afternoon at work. We had some plans for the weekend, and for the most plan; what I thought would happen did.

We left work around 4:30, usually when we are going away on a Friday afternoon we try to get out and on the road as quickly as possible. But this weekend we took our time. It was around 6 that we left; showered and bags packed, for one night away. Sarah and I often find that we stay longer than intended, but we made sure that wouldn’t happen this time. We walked down the hill, crossed Achimota road, and a trotro stopped for us straight away. When we got to Circle the main hub for transport from our area, we bought a bottle of ‘Old Nick’ white rum and I called Evans to let him know we were on our way to Kaneshie. [I will write about Kaneshie and Circle]. He lives up the road, about a 20minute walk, or 5 minute taxi ride from Kaneshie. The trotro to Kokrobite leaves from Kaneshie, it costs 1cedi. (about 50c Australian).

We sat, the 4 of us in the back row of the trotro. There was really only enough room for 3, but we squeezed in. The ride only takes about an hour, I was so thirsty. The shopping system works really well here. It’s quite dangerous. But very effective. The best way to describe it is, you know at traffic lights, when someone comes up to the window with a bucket and a squidgy? Well it’s the same idea except they have buckets or boxes or large bowls on their heads carrying anything and everything. Have I told you about the water sachets? The tap water here is not drinkable, sachet water is very easy to come by and incredibly cheap. Imagine a 500ml sachet of say taco dressing, but its water. It’s quite nice to drink out of. Well they sell the water on their heads, and it’s usually very cold, and super refreshing. They also sell loaves of bread, toilet paper, tissues, phone credit, bottles of soft drink and so much more.

I want to tell you about 2 products in particular that can be bought from someone carrying it on their head, number one- plantain chips, number two- fan ice or fan milk. The plantain chips are amazing. Plantains are like bananas, but the really really ripe ones are like just ripe bananas, and they fry them and they are amazing. A packet, which would be like 2 plantains worth is 50 peswas, or 25c Australian. Sitting on the trotro you yell out; PLANNNNTAIIIINNNNNNN!!! Haha and they run over as the trotro is driving away. It’s quite thrilling. The second item I mentioned is the fan ice or fan milk, basically it’s about the size of an Eskimo Pie. It’s about 30c Australian. They serve it in a small plastic bag because the condensation on the outside drips everywhere. Most people bite the corner off and suck the melted liquid through the hole, the same as the water sachets. So refreshing.

So the four of us were jammed into the back of the trotro, Evans decided he wanted some plantain chips. We were sitting Evans, me, Maddie, then Sarah. So Evans and Sarah were at both windows. The plan was who ever saw a plantain lady first would yell out the window and grab the 2 bags for the four of us.

As we approached the final stop, we went over a speed bump too fast and all four of us bumped our heads on the roof. It hurt and there was much yelling from other passengers. About 30seconds later we pulled in, and all filled out. I had my phone in my lap for most of the journey, but I thought I’d put it in my bag before we arrived, As we were getting out Evans wanted to make sure we all had our things, he had heard something fall when we hit our heads. Turns out it was my phone.

He ran to the nearest taxi and jumped in, “follow that trotro!!” Maddie was calling it continuously so when he got to the trotro, he would see it on the floor. After about 5 minutes he answered, YAY! He came back in the taxi, the hero.

We met up with friends of friends, who took us to their house. Sarah’s friend, who had her phone met us at the house. They walked us down a random dirt path in a direction we hadn’t been before with me saying, have you guys seen the movie Wolf Creek? The house was quite nice. It was really hot inside when we arrived, even though it was after 8. We sat outside for a while, chatting. Sarah went for a walk and Evans went off with one of the other guys, so Maddie and I sat with some of the others, going through music on Sarah iPod. We were so hot, and wanted to go out. Around 10 we walked down to Big Milly’s. where we usually stay. We grabbed a beer, and sat on the beach.

I love the beaches here. Well, the beach in Accra, in Osu, is disgusting. But, in Kokrobite, it’s nice. We stayed out past 2am. Walking back, to his house, we wanted to buy egg sandwiches. They are amazing, and the perfect late night drunk snack. Unfortunately one lady had run out of bread, so we went to another who was closed, to buy bread, then took the bread back to the first lady, who was, by that time closing and ready for bed. So we ate our bread in peace. By the time we went to sleep, and woke up at the crack of dawn, we had about 3 hours of sleep each. YUK.

We spent the day on the beach, the sand is nice and soft, and the water is the perfect warm temperature, to swim at any time of the day or night. I am getting tanned, if you saw me you would laugh, for sure. But I am the most tanned I have been in my life. So sometimes, I don’t worry too much about sunscreen, I got pretty badly burnt on my feet about a month ago. Silly me, I put sunscreen on my legs and missed my feet. They were so swollen, it was pretty funny. So this time, I just put sunscreen on my sholders and feet/ ankles. Silly girl, as mum would say. So I got burnt everywhere else. And I managed to get 3 stripes on my shin, where I rubbed the sunscreen that was on my fingers off. Oh well, eventually the burn will get less severe.

We bought spicy fried plantain and spicy egg sandwiches from Waxzi, and sat on the beach eating them. So good!! We left the beach around 3. I decided to go back to Evans house, and meet the girls out later in the evening. At about 8, I messaged them – saying I was super tired, and would they hate me if I pyked. Well that was not an option. I got a call about an hour and a half later, filled with screaming and to get dressed coz we will have an amazing night out. In the time between my message and their call, I had been completely passed out. Evans went out to get dinner, and I crashed.

We decided to go out. It was an effort, we were exhausted. But as always, as soon as you start getting ready, you’re fine. We picked Sarah, Pete and Jaime up in Circle on the way to Duplex in Osu. They caught a trotro into town from Pokuase. I called Sarah when we got to Circle, Evans jumped out of the cab and was frantically waving to them, across the street, while I was on the phone telling Sarah, we’d be over soon, to pick them up. They were all so drunk, we did a U turn, and pulled up. Jaime yelled out, OMG CARO! What are you doing here, look guys its Caro and Evans!! Sarah was like ohhh where did you come from?! Sarah got in the front, and Jaime and Pete jumped in the back with Evans and I. At first, Pete was yelling at us, to make sure we were ok! Then he stuck his head out the window like a dog, then turned the other way so he was sitting on Jaime’s lap, she was moving between fits of laughter and oh god, he won’t shut up! Pete then lied down across the three of us and stuck his feet out the window.

Not surprisingly the Taxi driver didn’t know where to go, and kicked us out in Osu near the KFC. In the evenings around Accra, there are Police Checkpoints. I think the driver was most concerned about so many drunk obrunis in his car! The guys wanted KFC to soak up some of the alco! So we went in. I had no shoes on, Sarah had brought appropriate shoes for me, ususally the clubs don’t care, but it’s harder to get in with thongs sometimes. So I put her shoes on, and we went into KFC.

Sarah had also brought me some make-up, which was much needed, after the day in the sun and a mid-evening cat nap. Evans and I guided the others into KFC, where the bought greasy food and coke. Pete finished his meal like a child, and then began running around the upstairs level of the restaurant like a child, galloping around. I had to grab his hand, and try to make him behave when he decided it would be funny to jump over the balcony.

After a few strange looks and giving obruni’s the world over a bad name, we left. Walking along the street, we weren’t really sure where to go. Pete was running all over the shop. He bolted down the street into oncoming traffic. I felt like I was working at a kindergarten. Evans spoke to a taxi driver, and he took us to the club. I really like the place. They play my kind of music. The drinks aren’t bad, they stay open late. A real dance floor would make the place complete.

We danced for hours. Well, let me go back a step. We arrived, I really needed a drink, to catch up to the others. The 3 hooligans ran in, started going mental to the music, I bought 4 tequila shots, (me, Jaime, Evans and Armin) and then they all crashed. It was over just like that. I went outside and Armin and Jaime were chatting. Pete was lying on the ground, he did not look well. Inside Sarah and Ali were dancing. Evans and I joined them.

The next day, at Evans’ house we made Red Red; one of my favourite Ghanaian dishes. It’s beans, with a fish tomato sauce, and fried plantains. Paulina, Evans’ sister is an amazing cook. We ate with our hands, it’s the traditional way.

In the afternoon the power went out. So we went for a walk around the town. There is an outdoor café near his house, I met the owner; he is a really nice man.

And that is the weekend that was. Well now it was 2 weekends ago.