Studying youth work reinforced in me the need for reflection. I know on the whole I think way too much, but reflection is incredibly important. We need to learn from our mistakes and utilise our strengths to make the most of life. Reflection enables this, and having a diary helps sort out your thoughts. I’m pretty happy that I’ve kept a diary from almost day one of my trip, since I left Australia and I am now onto the second. Someone told me once that if you write it down it help reassess your thoughts, as the left side and right side of your brain deal with emotions differently, by writing it down you are able to combine both sides of thinking and work out what’s going on. Having said all this, it has been such a busy week, it’s been almost impossible to write any of it down. I have about 4 or 5 half written entries, I will start writing and have to leave or fall asleep or get distracted.
So here is the best summary of my first week in Ghana. If I organise it into sections it might be easier to follow.
The people
Wow, what can I say? That’s been my initial response for quite a bit of the Ghana writings, but it’s the best response. Ghanaians are a beautiful people. Incredibly friendly and helpful, the kids smile, and wave and shout obruni. That’s what we are, obrunies, [I don’t know the correct spelling]. Obruni means white person or foreigner. I haven’t heard anyone say it in jest yet, they are just stating the obvious. Next time someone says it to me I will say obibini which is the opposite. Some of the volunteers say that, and the kids laugh. Sometimes people ask for money, and it is really hard to say no, but I do when I can.
The life expectancy is 59 years here, so there are no older people. It’s amazing, I have never been anywhere with such a short life expectancy. I will confirm the exact details, but I think the majority of people are under 25. Grandparents are around 45. After speaking with some of the people working here, it seems that when someone dies, it’s not always known or asked why they died, it is just accepted or understood as a part of life.
Being an obruni woman attracts much attention. There aren’t many obrunis here, so I think we might represent something maybe it is alluring, or mysterious, or we offer the chance to visit another country. I am not really sure. So far I have had 2 men ask me to take them back to Australia with them when I go back, one was a man in a tro tro, his name was Godwin and he told me if it is God’s will then we will meet again. Haha, then he told me I am an angel. The other time it happened was in the taxi, pretty similar experience. On another occasion, in another tro tro the conductor asked to marry me. We are quite often asked for our numbers, and then for our names, in that order. Having only been here a week, I still say that I don’t have a phone yet, although I do, [I haven’t had a phone in 6 months, and it has been amazing, I hate having one again]. While we were waiting for the tro tro last night, I was asked for my number, but instead I insisted he write his on a piece of paper. When I said it, I figured if he would, then that showed determination. Haha, the men here are incredibly forward, nothing like in Australia or some European countries, where they are not very forward at all. I enjoy the flattery, but at times the persistence is a little unnerving.
On the whole I really like the people that I have met, it is a very relaxed environment. GMT – Greenwich Mean Time, which is what we are on here, actually stands for Ghana Maybe Time. The pace is quite slow, what with the electricity going off for hours on end, water being off for a few days in a row; it’s hard to have a quick pace. I really enjoy the pace, it is slow, but it is by no means stressful. Water being off isn’t fun though. Bucket showers sound far more glamorous than they really are, especially with a low of 25 and a high of 32 every day and 70% humidity. But everyone is in the same boat, and at least we have access to water.
Food
Where we are there is not much variety. As part of the volunteer program we are given dinner, which is pretty handy as up the street there isn’t much variety of ingredients. It is our responsibility to buy breakfast and lunch for ourselves. There is a fruit stand that sells bananas, plantains [like bananas but not sweet, better cooked] pineapples, mangos and sometimes papaya. The fruit is really good, I think it is usually pretty fresh, although I think the pineapple yesterday made me a bit sick. We can also buy eggs, bread, tea, and crackers (and a few other things) up the street pretty cheaply.
Dinner is usually a carbohydrate; pasta, rice [brown or white], fried plantains or yams with a sauce. The sauce is pretty much guaranteed to be of the red variety, I think it is palm oil and chill, but I’m not sure how they make it. Its spicy, every night, the only variation is in how spicy it is. 1 is not spicy and 10 being blow your face off, it sits around the 7 mark for me generally. Although I know I will get used to it.
Transportation
The main form of transport is tro tros, I think there are more tro tros per capita, than cars. By this I mean there are more seats available in all the tro tros than there are in the cars, that doesn’t make sense, but from what I’ve seen, tro tros seem to be a more commonly used form of transport than cars. They are easy, efficient and cheap. Considering almost 80% of the population live on less than $2 a day, owning, or having access to a car is simply not an option. I have a post set aside to explain the tro tros in more detail below.
There are 2 types of taxis here, and I am yet to distinguish the difference in their appearance. The first type is the share taxi, which generally leaves from a certain destination, like a bus stop, and transports people to another set destination. It works a bit like a bus as well, each seat is occupied, and each person only pays for their seat. Depending on where you are going, this is usually around a cedi, which is about 50c Australian, I think. If someone gets out, and there is a seat free, people on the side of the road will shout where they are going, and if the taxi is going to that location, they will stop and let you in.
The second type of taxi is a normal taxi, like you would find anywhere I guess, you flag them down, they take you to your destination. The only difference is you haggle with the driver before you get in, to negotiate the price. There are no meters, and really no set fair, just a guide. I am no good at haggling yet, but I’m beginning to get the idea of what different fares are worth.
Buses are another transport option, but from what I have seen, buses are only used long distance, and they work the same way as the tro tro, whereby, as far as I am aware, the bus won’t leave until all seats are occupied. I have a feeling though, some buses run on a schedule, but that’s just a guess.
The final form of transport, other than owning a car or flying is to hire a car and a driver. This works the same way as the taxi, you negotiate the fare and depending on the time frame, situation, you pay for their food and accommodation. We are considering hiring a car and a driver to go up to Mole National Park, about 12 hours north of Accra where we are. I don’t know much about this option just yet, but when I do, I’ll update you.
Accra
Accra, Accra, Accra. I don’t actually live in Accra, I live in Pokuase, about an hour, or 10km north ish, from Accra. We aren’t quite rural, I think it is considered a suburb, but it is vastly different from the city centre. At the bottom of the hill, there is a main road where we take the tro tro into town, that road is paved. The road leading downhill is paved, however most roads in the area are dirt.
Accra is an amazing city. I haven’t seen or noticed any high rise buildings, the airport is very close to the centre of town, there is a huge division of wealth and poverty, depending where you are. The Movenpick hotel is the only 5 star hotel in Accra, that doesn’t really mean anything to me, except we went there to steal there high speed wifi, and the enormity and grandeur of it blew me away. It is a huge statement of wealth, and division. Out the front the pavement is almost lined [that doesn’t sound like an appropriate description] it is basically lined with homeless people begging. I haven’t seen much begging in Accra, not compared to what I expected, I think it is the same as most cities. But out the front of the hotel it is very sad. For the incredibly rich people who stay there, I wonder what they see on the pavement, how they respond to the obvious inequality.
Depending on where you are, I say this again because it really does, you need to keep an eye on your belongings, be vigilant I think is the best way to describe it. I wear my back pack on my front if I feel unsafe. Once again, difficult use of words, I haven’t felt particularly unsafe yet, but if I feel there is a heightened level of pick pocketing I’ll put my bag on my front. There are people EVERYWHERE though, I can’t stress this enough. It is insane the number of people. Young kids walk through the streets alone from school, people selling everything and anything on the pavement and in little shop fronts.
What else can I tell you about Accra? Perhaps I will leave it there for now and tell you more, as I learn more. Oh, I must say there is a fabulous array of materials, every different colour and pattern and fabric and it is spectacular, walking through the streets I felt like I was in a lolly shop. I bought some material yesterday to get a dress made for me, the seamstress’ here are remarkable and I have never had anything made to fit before. Very excited!!
Climate
HOT! Sweaty! HOT! What more can I say. It is technically winter right now, but you wouldn’t know it. It gets to around 20 overnight, and up to around 32 during the day. That’s not too bad you say? Well there is no break in the weather, usually after 3 or 4 days you’d expect a thunderstorm, nope. Plus add 70% humidity to that. I have never sweated so much in my life. March, April is the rainy season apparently, no idea what that is going to be like. Steamy I imagine.
Music
I haven’t had much exposure to the music yet. But from what I have heard, and been told, there is a lot of reggae. Reggae isn’t my first choice of music but the rhythm and beat they have here is hypnotic. We went to a beach party on Wednesday night and it was great. There is about 4 meters of sand, as the tide comes in, and they had chairs and tables along the sand, with a DJ and stalls selling kebabs and food and drinks. Great fun. There is another genre of music I am yet to hear called hip-life. This is a combination of hip hop and high-life which originate in the 1920s I think. I am looking forward to hearing it.
When I learn more I will tell you more.